All about Damp in old houses... We've written another page to show you some of the things that are a result of condensation, and how to deal with it. The Rising Damp specialists just treat it as rising damp!!! Research what they say - then have a look at the Damp page of this site and see for yourself the fraud that is Rising Damp! |
Managing Condensation in old houses and buildingsCondensation is a common problem in old houses, and to a lesser extent in new houses, which should comply with building regulations –these are meant to avoid problems such as condensation. Condensation in old houses causes the phenomenon most commonly called 'Rising Damp' Temperature + Humidity = Condensation...We have sophisticated, yet simple measuring equipment which allows us to precisely monitor the levels of humidity and the temperature in your house. From these, we calculate the 'Dew Point' - the temperature at which condensation will form. It is then a simple process to check the temperature of walls and pinpoint those which are at risk, and those which actually have condensation forming on them. A recent survey provided the best example we could ever quote. Our client asked us to survey his house and try to ascertain why mould was suddenly appearing on the walls around the house. He complained that there were damp patches all over the house, and mould growing on clothes and belongings in cupboards. Plaster was peeling in some areas, together with paint finishes. As soon as we entered the house, we took ambient humidity and temperature readings - these showed humidity of over 70% and a room temperature of 22 degrees C. The dew point, at which temperature condensation will start to form, was in this case calculated at 13.5 degrees. A spot check of the walls in the worst affected areas (using a very sensitive thermocouple) showed that they were all at or below dew point, and thus condensation was actively forming - which is why the walls were wet.. We opened a window at the front of the house by an inch, and the back door by a similar amount, which was just enough to allow a flow of air into the house. Within two hours, condensation on the walls had disappeared. Checks of the humidity and temp levels showed that the humidity had dropped to below 60%, and the temperature only by 3 degrees - the house felt warmer, and there was now a big gap between the temperature of the walls, and the dew point, which had dropped considerably. Our client was delighted, his problems were essentially solved - we recommended a series of small changes in his lifestyle, some ventilation fans, and air vents - all at minimal cost, and the house is now starting to become dry and mould free. Luckily, we got to this one before the plaster dropped off and damage occurred to finishes. These two photos below are probably the most significant examples of what can happen to a wall that I've ever seen. Look carefully at them, and the pattern of 'damp' that is repeating in the first picture - then have a look at the detailed explanation below the photos... |
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This is a wall between two rooms in an old farmhouse. The wall is papered with an impervious paper which has trapped condensation at the base of the wall. The paper has gone mouldy - the glue has rotted, and the whole thing is horrible. the glue is easily removed by peeling it back - revealing a bone-dry lime plaster underneath, and no evidence of so called 'rising damp' However... Look more closely. At the top of the photo, where the wallpaper starts again, you can see that the plaster itself is bubbling and soft - it's actually damaged. What has caused this damage I wonder...? For the answer, we have to look at the other side of the wall - in the photo to the right... |
In this photo we can clearly see that wallpaper has been applied over a dark grey water inhibiting plaster which had trapped all kinds of problems. This was chipped off to reveal lovely dry lime plaster. But..... above it you can just see a dark reddish patch - and a semi circular break line between lime plaster and newer cement render above it. Look at the shape of the damaged plaster in the previous photo at the same level. Now you can see that the cement render on this side is causing that crumbling lime plaster in the first photo. Every action with an old house involving anything impervious, anything that traps water and stops the building breathing, will result in an unpleasant reaction somewhere else! |
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This is another 'damp' wall in the same house. Old brick wall, covered with cement render, and over it is a coat of so called 'renovating plaster' - DONT EVER USE RENOVATING PLASTER - it is rubbish - it contains cement, and it doesnt breathe. You can see its grey - thats cement! This lot has again trapped water which has managed to get out at the skirting level where the plaster stops, and destroy the skirting boards - very nearly creating enough moisture to start dry-rot. We just got to this one in time. All this plaster will come off, the wall will be taken back to clean brick, the cement pointing taken off the other side and repointed in lime, and this wall will be lime plastered. Another example of a damp wall that is caused by condensation, not rising damp.! |
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This is a fantastic example of condensation in a corner of a bedroom. It had formed on one wall, causing damp, mould, fungus - you name it. We scraped the paint and fungus off, to expose cement render on brickwork. It doesnt go round the corner to the wall on the right. I wonder why? We tested the temperature and humidity of the walls. The wall on the right is covered with original lime plaster. The temperature probe showed a temperature of almost 2 degrees higher for the lime plaster than the wall with the mould on it - which was cement rendered and nearly 2 degrees colder. Another example of how modern materials dont work, and traditional materials are warmer and drier.! |
Condensation is the result of warm, moist air which finds a cold surface on which to condense. The two coldest places in a house are generally the windows, and the bottom of the outside walls, near the skirtings. Moisture comes from a variety of sources, but mainly:
- We humans – the average human sweats and loses around 8 pints of water in a 12 hour period
- Kitchens – cooking – steam from hobs and ovens, tumble dryers
- Bathrooms – showers, baths, wet towels
- Plants – in pots on window ledges
- Wet cellars with no ventilation or air circulation
One of the things we often see in old houses, is water streaming down windows in winter and collecting in pools on the window ledge. This is because the rooms are not able to breathe – the air is not circulating and able to get away, and the warm, moisture laden air thus releases moisture on the windows. The commonest problems with old houses that stop air circulation are listed below:
- Installation of plastic (UPVC) windows with no ventilation
- Ventilation bricks blocked up
- Fireplaces blocked up with no ventilation
- Draught excluders around doors
- Lack of ventilation to cellars
- No extractor fans to kitchen and bathrooms
By tackling each of these problems, air circulation will dramatically improve, and far from making the house colder, will actually make it warmer, because there will be a lot less moisure in the air. If you have a cellar, the best way to dry it out and stop the dank smell is to fit a ventilation grille to the door, with a little electric extractor fan (bathroom type) on a timer switch, which is fitted to the outside wall near the ceiling of the cellar. This operates for an hour or two a day, and draws warm, dry air from the house into the cellar, and pushes cold, damp air out from the vent fan to the outside.
Problems arising from lack of ventilation:
There are two main problems
- Water condenses on windows and damages sills, and rots the frames at the bottom
- Water condenses on external walls, near the skirtings, and makes the plaster fall off.
The consequences of these problems can cost a lot of money to fix, so rather than watching wallpaper and plaster fall off walls, and windows rotting, all you have to do is get that ventilation working again!
Solutions:
- Ensure that UPVC windows have vents that work – if not, get vents fitted – they are available and easy to fit
- Uncover ventilation bricks – they are there for a purpose
- Make sure fireplaces all have a ventilation grille if they have been blocked up
- Take some of the draught excluders off – I know it sounds daft, but it works!
- Make sure your kitchen has an extractor fan and you use it when cooking
- Make sure your bathroom has an extractor fan, and make sure you use it whenever the bath or shower is being used
- Make sure tumble dryers are vented to outside walls – if not, use a condensing dryer
- Leave a window partly open – open a top hung light a little – let some air into the house
- Turn the heat down – a 5 degree drop in temperature means a great deal less water can go into suspension in the air
- Make sure your cellar is properly vented
If you follow all these rules, your house will be a lot drier, and condensation won’t be a problem.
A Note about bathrooms...
I recently did some experiments with our humidity equipment. I went into the bathroom as normal and had a shower. The ambient humidity in the house is around 55% - and within 4 or 5 minutes, the humidity in the bathroom had risen to nearly 100%. Measured at the floor, it was over 70%, and ceiling 100%. I had the extractor fan turned on, and the door open. When the shower was turned off, the humidity started to drop at ceiling height quite quickly - but only to about 85%. At floor level it dropped to 70%. The disturbing fact is that it took over 4 hours for the humidity in the room to drop below 70% - in other words, with average house temperatures there would have been condensation forming for 4 hours or more. It's worrying to see figures like this - I get similar figures all the time when cooking in the kitchen - what it means in reality, is that we are producing huge amounts of moisture as part of our everyday life, and our houses simply cannot cope. We NEED to be aware of this, and make sure that the house can breathe and ventilate. Ventilation means exchanging the volume of air in the house - you cant do it through a tiny crack or vent brick - the ventilation system needs to be able to exchange the entire volume of air in the house at least once a day - and that's hard to do without opening windows and doors...
Scary stuff, I know - but you need to know the facts!



