Our findings are based upon visual or instrumental evidence as recorded in your report. Regarding damp problems, unless it can be specifically diagnosed as condensatory, we have presumed that “damp” readings are due to the lack of a damp-proof barrier.
Woo Hoo! We admit that we 'presume' theres no dpc. Wheres the diagnosis you idiots!
This is not intended to infer that any previous works carried out by others is at fault. All initial checks for damp related problems are conducted with the use of a simple pin type moisture meter. We do not, unless otherwise requested in writing, carry out damp surveys using carbide meters which require samples to be taken physically from the brickwork by drilling.
Oh great - so we use inappropriate equipment to persuade you theres damp where there isnt any... we even admit that the ping prong meter doesnt work, and we should be doing carbide tests (which nobody does anyway) to try and prove the wall really is wet..
And these are the 'technical' specifications of the company... :-)
1. First Rendering Coat
Mix: Three parts washed sharp sand to one part sulphate resistant cement.
And now for the chemical warfare:
Apply render up to 10mm thick, incorporating waterproofing admixture, using only sufficient water to maintain workability. Water to be free from contaminants, the cement should be fresh and free flowing. Do not over trowel. On initial set, scratch to provide a mechanical key and apply floating coat before the scratch coat has finally gone off.
Leave a 25mm channel between the rendering coat and any solid floor.
OK - my bold and italics here - waterproofing folks - waterproofing.... So we've just slapped waterproof crap on the wall - er.... how the hell is it supposed to dry out - please read on.....
2. Second Rendering Coat
Mix: Four parts washed sharp sand to one part sulphate resistant cement.
Apply second coat up to 10mm thick, using only sufficient water to maintain workability. Do not over trowel.
It must be remembered that, even after the insertion of a damp-proofing course, the moisture already present in the wall can only escape by evaporation. As a general guide, the drying rate is given as 1 month for every 25mm of wall thickness (BRE Digest 163, ‘Drying out buildings’). Therefore, 230mm will take approximately 9 months to dry. However, the drying out depends on conditions, ventilation and the type of masonry, so drying may take considerably longer. External finishes, e.g. paint/render, will considerably extend this time period. Due to the potential prolonged drying of the wall, the following must be considered:
CAN YOU BELIEVE THIS RUBBISH!!! Obviously thousands of unsuspecting folks do - which is why there are still thousands of sopping wet houses all over the country that have been 'damp proofed'!! Again, my bold italics. How the hell is the moisture going to get out if the bloody wall is waterproofed....
Delay any decoration for at least 4-6 weeks following replastering and allow for good natural ventilation to enhance drying. After this time period only use a non vinyl based emulsion. Do not apply heat or accelerated drying methods.
- Do not use wallpaper, textured wall coatings, oil-based paints or vinyl emulsions for at least 12 months on a standard 230mm wall. (Longer on thicker walls)
- Maintain good ventilation around walls.
Note: The initial decorations should be regarded as temporary, the final decorations not taking place for at least 12 months after the completion of the damp proofing and ancillary works.
